BJJ Armbar Submission Methods (Complete Guide)
The armbar is one of the most reliable submissions in Brazilian Jiu-Jitsu because it works from many positions and doesn’t require big strength when the mechanics are right. A clean armbar is about isolating the arm, controlling the shoulder line, and using the hips as the engine—then applying pressure slowly and safely.
This guide breaks down the armbar fundamentals, high-percentage setups from common positions, and the mistakes that cause most finishes to fail.
When learning armbars for competition, always double-check what’s allowed for your belt level and ruleset (especially if you’re mixing in jumping entries or aggressive transitions) by reviewing the official IBJJF updates page.
What an armbar really is
An armbar is a joint lock that attacks the elbow by extending it past its normal range of motion. In practical terms, the goal is to:
- Keep the opponent’s thumb oriented so the elbow hinges the “wrong” way (thumb generally points up).
- Trap the arm so the opponent can’t bend the elbow or rotate out.
- Put the opponent’s elbow line close to your hips so your bridge becomes the breaking force (not your arms).
When it’s done correctly, the finish feels effortless—because the hips are doing most of the work.In judo terminology, the classic armbar is commonly referred to as juji-gatame, and this judo terminology and glossary is a helpful reference if you want the traditional naming.

Positions Leading to the BJJ Armbar

If you want the traditional terminology connection, the armbar is essentially the same family of armlocks as judo’s juji-gatame (cross armlock), and this judo terminology and glossary is a quick reference for those terms.
The 5 rules of a strong armbar
These principles apply whether you’re attacking from guard, mount, side control, or a scramble.If you plan to use armbars in competition—especially dynamic entries—check the latest IBJJF rules updates for what’s allowed in your division.

1) Control the shoulder, not just the wrist
Many people clamp the wrist and assume the finish is guaranteed. It isn’t. If the opponent’s shoulder can rotate freely, the elbow survives. Aim to control the arm above the elbow (triceps) and the shoulder line (head/upper body position) so the arm stays “locked in.”

2) Win the angle before you throw the leg
If the opponent’s posture is tall and square, your leg will feel heavy and slow. Break posture first, then create an angle so your hips can slide in tight. The angle is what makes your leg clear the head cleanly.

3) Pinch your knees like you mean it
Knee pressure is what keeps the elbow from slipping and stops the opponent from turning. A loose “V” with the legs is the fastest way to lose the arm as they stack or pull out.
4) Keep the elbow line close to your hips
If the opponent’s elbow is far away from your hips, you’ll pull with your arms and get tired. The closer the elbow is to your hips, the more the bridge works like a lever.

5) Finish slowly (and train safely)
In training, apply the finish gradually. Control first, then add pressure step-by-step. This protects training partners and also prevents “panic finishing” that leads to sloppy mechanics.
Step-by-step: how to finish the armbar cleanly
Use this checklist as your default finish mechanics.
- Trap the arm: Two hands on one arm (wrist + above the elbow is a strong combination).
- Secure head position: Your leg goes over the head so their posture can’t sit up.
- Clamp knees: Pinch and keep heels heavy.
- Align the thumb: Generally thumb up helps the elbow hinge into the lock.
- Bridge hips: Lift hips while keeping the arm tight to your chest.
- Add minimal pull: If needed, pull the wrist toward your chest—but don’t “row” hard.
If something feels like it needs a lot of strength, it usually means the angle or knee pinch is missing.
High-percentage armbar setups by position
Armbar from closed guard
Closed guard is one of the best places to learn armbars because you can break posture and isolate arms without taking much risk.For a clear example of why posture control and angle come before the leg swing, see this breakdown of how John Danaher sets up his armbar.
Reliable setup concept
- Control one arm (often wrist control).
- Break posture (pull head/shoulders down or use collar/head control in gi).
- Shift hips out to create an angle.
- Bring your leg high on the opponent’s back/shoulder before swinging the other leg over the head.
Key details
- Climb your guard high before you pivot; armbars fail when the hips stay low.
- Aim your top leg heavy over their face line so they can’t sit up.
- Don’t fall straight back—angle off to the side of the trapped arm to prevent stacking.
Common failure
- Swinging the leg over the head while the opponent is still postured up. The opponent stacks, your hips flatten, and the arm slips out.
Armbar from mount (including S-mount)
Mount armbars are “control first” submissions. If mount is stable, the armbar is often inevitable.
Simple mount-to-armbar pathway
- Force the opponent to defend (make them bring arms up).
- Isolate one arm by pinning it to the mat or trapping it across their body.
- Slide into a high mount or S-mount so your hips are near the shoulder.
- Swing the leg over the head, sit back under control, and clamp.
Key details
- S-mount helps because your hips sit close to the shoulder, reducing space for elbow slips.
- Keep your weight centered until the leg is over the head—rushing backward gives them room to pull the arm free.
- If they hitchhiker early, follow the rotation and re-clamp instead of yanking harder.
Armbar from side control
Side control armbars work best when you already control the near-side arm and block the opponent’s ability to turn into you.
One dependable approach
- Control the near-side arm (think: pin wrist to mat or isolate it with your chest pressure).
- Move your hips closer to their shoulder line.
- Step your near leg over their head (or around the head), then sit through to bring the arm between your thighs.
- Clamp knees, control wrist, and bridge.
Key details
- If your hips stay too far toward their hips, you’ll end up with a loose armbar where they can turn or slip the elbow.
- Keep your chest heavy during the transition; “light” transitions let them turn in and recover guard.
Flying armbar (advanced + high risk)
Flying armbars can be effective but carry higher injury risk and require precise timing. In most gyms, they’re best reserved for controlled drilling with a trusted partner—not hard sparring.
Safety-first notes
- Don’t jump if you don’t control posture and balance first.
- Avoid landing with uncontrolled bodyweight on your partner’s shoulder/elbow.
- Prefer learning entries that start with a strong grip and a controlled sit rather than a full leap.
Reverse armbar (and other variations)
Reverse armbars and spinning variations can catch experienced partners, but they still rely on the same core principles:
- Elbow line tight to hips
- Knees pinched
- Shoulder rotation controlled
Treat these as “later-layer” options after standard armbars are consistent.
Armbar from spider guard (gi)
Spider guard armbars are often created by off-balancing with sleeve grips and using your feet to extend and isolate an arm.
Key details
- Strong sleeve control matters; without it, the opponent pulls the arm out before you can rotate hips.
- Use your foot placement to stretch one arm away from their base, then pivot your hips into the armbar angle.
Common defenses and how to beat them
Defense: stacking (driving forward)
Fix
- Angle off earlier (don’t fall flat).
- Underhook or frame the leg to create space, then re-extend hips.
- Climb your legs higher on the back and keep knees tight.
Defense: hitchhiker escape (turning the thumb down and rotating out)
Fix
- Keep the opponent’s thumb orientation under control.
- Follow their rotation, keep the elbow line trapped, and re-clamp knees.
- Don’t pause mid-finish—control, then steadily extend.
Defense: pulling the elbow out
Fix
- Move the arm deeper before finishing (elbow past your hip line).
- Pinch knees first, then bridge.
- Control above the elbow (triceps) rather than only the wrist.
Training tips (so your armbars work in sparring)
- Drill in rounds: 2 minutes only entries, 2 minutes only control, 2 minutes only finishes.
- Aim for “silent” finishes: if it looks smooth and calm, it’s usually correct.
- Add resistance gradually: start with cooperative reps, then positional sparring (e.g., armbar position with the top person trying to escape at 30–50%).
- Respect the tap: armbars come on fast once the angle is correct.

